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Sanitize.
Before you start any procedure you must first sanitize
yourself and your client.
Preparing Nail For Tip Application
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Etch: Using the black 80 grit tip of
Galaxy's White Rocket File, etch all ten nails. Do this by
moving the file in one direction only, north and south. While
doing this, use the end of the file to push back the cuticle.
If the cuticle is excessive, use an orangewood stick to first push
back excess cuticle before etching. When you have finished etching,
if you notice an excessive amount of cuticle around the base of the
nail, you may then, but only then, use the white part of the White
Rocket File going east and west along the base of the nail to
remove excess cuticle. In order to have long-lasting adhesion,
you must start with a skin-free nail plate.
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Dust: All dust must be removed from
the nail plate. The proper tool to use is a nylon manicuring
brush. This tool has stiff bristles to remove dust completely
and can be sterilized.
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Balance: One squirt of Galaxy's©
Balance® before primer disinfects and levels the ph of the nail
plate.
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Prime: When priming the nails for
tip application, it is very important to follow these steps
carefully. Drain primer brush on the neck of the bottle and
then drain it again on the paper towel. When the primer brush
touches the nail plate, no primer should flow out from under the
brush. If this happens, the brush is too wet and you must once
again drain the brush. It is very important that the first
coat of the primer dries completely white and chalky. While
you are waiting for this to dry you can be sizing the tips.
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Size Up The Nails: This step should
be done while you are waiting for the first coast of primer to
dry. The first step in efficiency is to size each finger with
the appropriate tips. Each finger must be sized individually
because nail bed sizes vary (sometimes greatly) from the left to the
right hand.
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Re-prime: You will follow the exact
same procedure as before. Be careful not to get primer on the
cuticle or under the free-edge. This coat of primer must also
dry completely white and chalky. While waiting for the primer
to dry, prepare the tips for application.
Application of Tips
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Prepare Tips: When using Galaxy's
"Ultipmates", you must first thin the area of the tip to
be applied to the natural nail. Holding the tip firmly with
one hand, using the White Rocket File, you need to move in an east
and west direction across the well area. Be careful not to
file through the tip.
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Apply Tips: When
applying tips to the nail plate, be sure not to cover more than
one-half of the natural nail plate. With this procedure, their
is no use of glue. Glue eventually will crystallize, losing almost all
of its adhesion. So when applying tips, use a medium wet ball of
pink acrylic. Do this by starting at the cuticle
area and covering
the nail plate area as if doing an overlay. (The area of the nail
that the acrylic is applied to, should first be lightly moistened with
monomer.) Once the nail plate is covered with pink acrylic,
promptly roll tip from free-edge down towards cuticle so that any excess
acrylic will roll out the back. Hold in place until stable.
Using a orangewood stick, roll excess acrylic off the tip, back onto the nail
plate (Do not remove). Repeat this step on all ten nails.
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Blending Tips: This step is very
important to ensure there will be no lifting. Using the body
of the White Rocket File and moving in an east and west direction,
blend the tip into the natural nail plate. It is also
important to remove any visible traces of the tip so as not to show
through the pink and white nails. Repeat this step on all ten
nails.
Application of Product Over the Tip
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Free-edge: Whenever applying product over a tip, use a
smaller amount than you would use, say for a sculptured nail.
Take this ball and lay it up to the free-edge of the natural nail
plate. Work it up into the corner, creating your smile line (this is the
definition line between the pink and white). Then pull the
remaining product down over the tip. Be sure the acrylic
covers the entire tip. Any uncovered tip will warp and change
the sahpe during wear. Use white or White Lightning powder for
free-edge.
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Cuticle Area: Using the pink powder, apply the product in
any area that needs filling. Pat from side to side. Then
stroke downward. The product does not need to touch the
free-edge but if it does, that is fine.
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Middle Area: Next, using pink powder, apply a middle sized
ball in the center of the nail plate (only if needed), pat in back
to blend with cuticle ball and stroke down over the free edge.
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File Nails: Using the body of the White Rocket File, you
will shape the nail to the desired look. First, shape the
sides, then the free-edge and finish by shaping the op surfaces.
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Using the 180 grit Rocket Zebra File, you will finish your nail by
going over the entire surface and smoothing the acrylic at the
cuticle area completely flush with the natural nail. This will
also remove any deep scratches the 100 grit white file might have
made and allow you to buff the nail with great ease.
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Buffing: Use a Terminator File or a snow buffer, buff the entire surface being
sure to terminate any and all scratches from the nail. This will
prepare your surface for polish.
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Oil your clients cuticles using Galaxy's nourishing Almond Cuticle
Oil. This will rehydrate the skin and soften the cuticles. |
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Client scrub. Have your client use a stiff pre-sterilized
nylon manicure brush to remove all excess oil and debris. |
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Liquid Glass: Liquid Glass is a plastic sealer meant to
wear over pink and white nails. This is a UV protector and
only takes two coast. It dries in 120 seconds and looks as
shiny as freshly cleaned glass. Liquid Glass may not be used
as a base coat or a top coat.
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Smudge Me Not Top
Coat: Add a coat of Galaxy's Smudge Me
Not top coat to finish your client beautifully over Liquid Glass or
polish. Smudge Me Not is non-yellowing,
dries in under 3 minutes and can be used over Liquid Glass for a flawless
finish and prevents the sticky finish caused by sunscreens, hair
products, perfumes and other elements.
Note: Apply overlay to
all nails before clipping excess tip. This will ensure that all
your tips are secure.
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