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Sanitize
Before you start any procedure you must first sanitize yourself and
your client. This simple step takes very little time and will help
reduce the passing of cold viruses and other infections which are
contracted through touch. Start by having your client wash their
hands and scrub their nails. Once at the station, use Stationsafe®
rinseless hand sanitizer on both your self and your client, before
beginning service.
Preparing Nail For Tip Application
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Etch: Using the black 80 grit tip of
Galaxy's© White Rocket File, etch all ten nails. Do this by
moving the file in one direction only, north and south. While
doing this, use the end of the file to push back the cuticle.
If the cuticle is excessive, use a clean Galaxy orangewood stick to first push
back excess cuticle before etching. Then etch as usual. When you
have finished etching,
if you notice an excessive amount of cuticle around the base of the
nail, you may then, but only then, use the white part of the White
Rocket File going east and west along the base of the nail to
remove excess cuticle. In order to have long-lasting adhesion,
you must start with a skin-free nail plate.
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Dust: All dust and
debris must be removed from
the nail plate. The proper tool to use is a nylon manicuring
brush. This tool has stiff bristles to remove dust completely
and can be sterilized.
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Balance: One squirt of
Galaxy's Balance before primer disinfects and levels the ph of the nail
plate.
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Prime: When priming the nails for
tip application, it is very important to follow these steps
carefully. Drain primer brush on the neck of the bottle and
then drain it again on the paper towel. When the primer brush
touches the nail plate, no primer should flow out from under the
brush. If this happens, the brush is too wet and you must once
again drain the brush. It is very important that the first
coat of the primer dries completely white and chalky. While
you are waiting for this to dry you can be sizing the tips.
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Size Up The Nails: This step should
be done while you are waiting for the first coast of primer to
dry. The first step in efficiency is to size each finger with
the appropriate tips. Each finger must be sized individually
because nail bed sizes vary (sometimes greatly) from the left to the
right hand.
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Re-prime: You will follow the exact
same procedure as before. Be careful not to get primer on the
cuticle or under the free-edge. This coat of primer must also
dry completely white and chalky. While waiting for the primer
to dry, prepare the tips for application.
Application of Tips
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Prepare Tips: When using
Galaxy's© White Lightning® Tips, you must first
file off any excess wings, and shape the area of the tip to be
applied to the natural nail. Holding the tip firmly with
one hand, using the White Rocket File, you need to move in an east
and west direction across the well area. Angle the file
according to how deep you want the smile line to be. Use your
pinky to roll excess plastic from underside of tip, to top
area. Use a terminator file or snow block to remove excess.
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Apply Tips: When applying tips to
the nail plate, be sure not to cover more than one-half of the
natural nail plate. With this procedure, their is no use of
glue. Glue eventually will crystallize, losing almost all of
its adhesion. So when applying tips, use a medium wet ball of
pink acrylic. Do this by starting at the cuticle area and
covering the nail plate area as if doing an overlay. (The area
of the nail that the acrylic is applied to, should first be lightly
moistened with monomer.) Once the nail plate is covered with
pink acrylic, promptly roll tip from free-edge down towards cuticle
so that any excess acrylic will roll out the back. Hold in
place until stable. Using an orangewood stick, roll excess acrylic off
the tip, back onto the nail plate (Do not remove). Repeat this
step on all ten nails.
Application of Product Over the Tip
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Free-edge: Whenever applying product over a tip, use a
smaller amount than you would use, say for a sculptured nail.
Take this ball and lay it up to the free-edge of the natural nail
plate. Pat it up and around the smile line, covering the tip,
then pull it down over the entire tip. Be sure to cover all
surfaces of the tip. Any uncovered tip will warp and change
shape during wear.
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Cuticle Area: Using clear powder, apply the product in
any area that needs filling. Pat from side to side. Then
stroke downward. The product does not need to touch the
free-edge but if it does, that is fine.
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Middle Area: Next, using clear powder, apply a middle sized
ball in the center of the nail plate (only if needed), pat in back
to blend with cuticle ball and stroke down over the free edge.
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File Nails: Using the body of the White Rocket File, you
will shape the nail to the desired look. First, shape the
sides, then the free-edge and finish by shaping the op surfaces.
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Using the 180 grit Rocket Zebra® File, you will finish your nail by
going over the entire surface and smoothing the acrylic at the
cuticle area completely flush with the natural nail. This will
also remove any deep scratches the 100 grit white file might have
made and allow you to buff the nail with great ease.
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Buffing: Using a Terminator File or a snow buffer, buff the entire surface being
sure to terminate any and all scratches from the nail. This will
prepare your surface for polish or Liquid Glass®.
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Oil your clients cuticles using Galaxy's©
nourishing Almond Cuticle Oil®. This will rehydrate the skin and soften the cuticles. |
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Client scrub. Have your client use a stiff pre-sterilized
nylon manicure brush to remove all excess oil and debris. |
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Liquid Glass: Liquid Glass® is a plastic sealer meant to
wear over pink and white nails. This is a UV protector and
only takes two coast. It dries in 120 seconds and looks as
shiny as freshly cleaned glass. Liquid Glass may not be used
as a base coat or a top coat.
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Smudge
Me Not Top Coat: Add a coat of Galaxy's
Smudge Me Not top coat to finish your client beautifully over Liquid
Glass or polish. Smudge Me Not is non-yellowing,
dries in under 3 minutes and can be used over Liquid Glass for a flawless
finish and prevents the sticky finish caused by sunscreens, hair
products, perfumes and other elements.
Note: Apply overlay to
all nails before clipping excess tip. This will ensure that all
your tips are secure.
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